How To Hook Up Ductwork To Floor Register
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Working with round ductwork
Whether you're adding new heat runs in a basement or changing the layout of an existing HVAC system, you lot'll probably exist working with round metallic ductwork piping. We invited Bob Schmahl to give us a few pointers. Bob's been a can bender for more than 40 years. He insists he still doesn't know everything about ductwork, simply we weren't convinced. These tips should help make your next chore run that much smoother.
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Install dampers at the registers to adjust airflow
Adding heat runs in a basement may change the airflow in the ductwork going to other rooms. Each annals should take its own damper that tin be accessed for aligning. If those dampers can't be accessed from below, yous'll want to install them shut enough to the register so that you can reach them through the register opening. Bob likes 4 x ten-in. boots (not shown)—you tin easily fit your hand in them to adjust dampers, and there are more grate cover options for that size.
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Don't peel off one-time tape of metal ducting
If you have to disassemble existing ductwork fittings, at that place'due south no need to skin off the former foil tape first. Instead, just score the tape at the seam with a utility pocketknife and remove the screws right through the tape. When it comes fourth dimension to retape, just clean off the grit and apply new tape right over the one-time.
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Bob'southward non a fan of flexible heating ductwork
In that location'south no question that flexible duct is easier to install than metal ductwork, but consider this: Flexible duct can degrade over fourth dimension. It collects dust and is almost impossible to clean. Flexible duct needs to exist larger than pipes to allow the same amount of airflow. The nigh common problem Bob has seen: "People go careless and turn corners as well precipitous, which creates kinks that severely restrict airflow."
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Gather the metal ducting like a attachment
When assembling pipe, starting time at one end and work the seam together like a zipper. Use one manus to keep the two edges close and the other to employ downward pressure. Apply your leg, a workbench or the basis to support the back side of the piping. If you make a mistake and have to dismantle a pipage, slam it downwards apartment on the ground, seam side up. It should pop right apart.
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A hole cutter works nifty in tight spots when replacing ductwork
Aviator snips work fine to cut holes in a torso line, just only if there's enough infinite. If you're dealing with close quarters and yous own a correct-angle drill or attachment, you may desire to invest in a sheet metal hole cutter. Otherwise you might have to have downwards the trunk line.
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Overlap butt joints with draw ring connectors
When you're installing a pipe between two stock-still parts, it's incommunicable to slip in the piece using the crimped ends and still get the required 1-ane/two-in. overlaps at both ends. Overlap one side equally you unremarkably would and create a butt articulation on the other. Utilise a depict band connector to complete the butt joint.
If your supplier doesn't comport describe band connectors, make your own past cutting a slice of pipe to overlap the ends, then spiral and tape the ring into place. If yous're working with half dozen-in. pipage, you lot'll demand to use 7-in. pipe for the bands.
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Caulk the accept-offs
Caulk (don't tape) the connectedness betwixt the trunk line and a take-off (elbow) earlier y'all connect pipes to information technology. That fashion, you'll be able to plough the have-off out of the style to caulk above information technology. Regular silicone is fine.
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Leave backing on the record on metal ductwork
If the ducts are going to exist concealed, all seams demand to exist taped or caulked. Here's Bob's trick for taping a seam on a pipe that'southward installed shut to the subfloor: Cutting a piece of foil tape to length. Pare off role of the backing. Slide the bankroll up and over the pipe. Finally, pull down on the backing, which will pull the record along with it. Inspectors volition want to know y'all've used an approved tape, so purchase the stuff with writing on it, or keep the ringlet on-site until inspection.
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Make two marks for cut when replacing ductwork
When cutting pipage, Bob likes to mark the size he needs on each side of the open seam with a marker. Apartment metal is easier to cut than curved, so he uses his human knee to support and flatten the pipe while he opens information technology upwardly. And so y'all simply sight on the far mark while you make the cut. It'll be straight and perfect every fourth dimension. Bob prefers snips made past Malco, which cost less than $35 online. Unless you enjoy trips to the ER, wear gloves when cut pipe—the stuff is razor sharp.
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Employ back up brackets and three screws to reduce movement and noise
Each pipe needs support. Yous can use just most any support you want, but adjustable steel support brackets are quick and piece of cake. And don't forget to screw the pipe to the joist hanger so the pipes won't rattle when someone stomps across the floor higher up. Every connection needs three screws. They don't have to exist evenly spaced. Use 1-in. galvanized zip screws designed for sheet metal.
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Movement 1 ring at a time to construct curves
Figuring out the right combination of turns to get an elbow to point in the right direction can exist perplexing. Bob recommends moving one "gore" (elbow band) at a time, starting with the connected side. And don't brand 90-degree turns if you don't have to. A ninety-caste elbow creates the same resistance equally adding v ft. of piping.
Originally Published: September 30, 2019
Source: https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/round-ductwork-installation-tips/
Posted by: kirklandshery1960.blogspot.com
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